Please refer to our filter replacement schedule for guidance on when to change each filter of your Pure Blue H2O four-stage reverse osmosis system.

Timely replacement of aging filters will optimize the performance of your system.

Did you install your flow restrictor into the RO Membrane Stage 3 filter?

If your system did not come with a pre-installed flow restrictor, you will need to install this by following these simple steps:

STEP #1:

Collect the parts you need.

STEP #2:

Insert the flow restrictor into the red tube coming from the AirGap faucet.

STEP #3:

Fit it snugly. It must me inserted all the way into the red tube.

STEP #4:

Attach the tube to reverse osmosis membrane elbow adapter.

NOTE: It takes approximately six to eight hours for the tank to fill up completely, so if you just installed the system, please give it time to fill up.

Is the ⅜-inch white drain tube installed correctly?

This is the tube that comes down from the bottom of the faucet and goes into the drain pipe of your sink. This tube is gravity fed, meaning there is no pressure in it to help push the water into the drain line. It should be as direct a route as possible.

If there are any loops or twists in the tube, it should be cut and straightened to eliminate them. If the tube dips down at any point below where it actually connects to the drain connector, it should be cut and shortened.

Is the drain connector on the same line as your garbage disposal?

Clogs are caused by excess runoff from garbage disposal and/or dishwashers, as well as buildup in the tube from the brine water discharge of the reverse osmosis system.

Loosen white tube from drain connector — do NOT disconnect tube from the base of the faucet. Then, reconnect the white tube to the drain connector. If water continues to leak out the AirGap faucet, then it may need another cleaning.

Tools required: bike pump and digital tire gauge.

STEP #1:
First, make sure you turn off your cold water supply.

STEP #2:
Next, you’re going to drain your tank. (You never want to check your tanks pressure with water in it.)

STEP #3:
Locate the blue cap towards the bottom of your tank. Screw off to remove.

STEP #4:
Next, using your digital tire gauge, check the pressure of your tank. Your pressure should be 5 to 7 psi (pounds per square inch). Using this range, you can figure out if you need to add or remove pressure.

STEP #5:
If you have above 7 psi, you will need to let out pressure. Using the end of a pencil or pen, press on the schrader valve until your digital tire gauge reads between 5–7 psi.

If you have below 5 psi, you will need to add pressure using a bicycle pump. Attach the pump to the schrader valve and pump air into your tank until your gauge reads between 5-7 psi.

The five-pack of reverse osmosis filter replacements is intended to meet the needs of your system within the first year. No Stage 3 membrane filter is included because these filters are typically changed every two to five years.

The replacement pack includes what filters will need to be changed within the first year: two Stage 1 sediment filters, two Stage 2 pre-carbon filters, and one Stage 4 post-carbon filter.

Please refer to our filter replacement guide for recommendations and further information.

We recommend changing your Stage 3 membrane filter every two to five years based on your incoming water quality. Watch the video below to learn how to perform a Stage 3 filter replacement.

The red light appears after 2,000 minutes of water usage and indicates that it is time for a six-month filter change — a replacement of your Stage 1 and Stage 2 filters.

You must manually reset the faucet battery for the light to appear blue again. Watch the video below to learn how to reset the AirGap faucet battery.

If your water flow rate seems slow, you may need to re-pressurize your tank.

First, try the following troubleshooting steps to resolve slow flow rate:

• Make sure filters are fully twisted into place
• Make sure filter changes are up to date
• Make sure your flow restrictor is properly installed
• Determine whether you are on a city or well water supply — re-pressurize your tank for city water pr increase your psi to 40 for well water

If you need to re-pressurize your tank, refer to our instructions listed above.

Additional troubleshooting steps to try:

• Make sure filters are fully twisted into place
• Check your flow restrictor connection

Did you install your flow restrictor into the Stage 3 reverse osmosis membrane filter?

STEP #1:
Hold down the top of the white collet on the top of elbow adapter and pull out the red tube from your Stage 3 filter.

This is the flow restrictor with the red tab end down and clear tube end facing the red line.

STEP #2:
Insert the clear end into the red line going to faucet.

STEP #3:
Make sure the red end is flush with your red line. Then, re-insert the red line with the restrictor in place back into the Stage 3 filter elbow adapter.

NOTE: It does take approximately six to eight hours for the tank to fill up completely, so if you just installed the system, please give it time to fill up.

Anytime the AirGap window – the tiny hole on the faucet – is leaking, it’s because the ⅜-inch white tube connected to the drain line needs to be on a vertical slope with no extra length. This tube is gravity-fed, and it is the only line that does not require pressure to push the water, which is why it needs to be as short and straight as possible. If you have had your system for more than four months, we suggest you clean your drain line.

Watch the video below for more information.

Did you install your flow restrictor?
If not, refer to our instructions under the question “Why is water coming out of the faucet hole on the base?”

Do you have your filter installed correctly?
Check out our filter replacement guide to verify that you have installed your filters correctly.

Filter-Replacement-Guide-Web

To connect to both your fridge and faucet:
You will need to buy a quick-connect adapter to split the tube coming from the system to the faucet. This adapter will look like a “T” and it will need to match the ⅜-inch blue tube from the faucet as well as your refrigerator tubing.

To allow control of the flow, let the tank fill for approximately six to eight hours and purchase a ball-valve adapter to attach to the fridge line. Close this valve to let the tank fill, then open it to the fridge.

To connect with only your fridge:
If your fridge line is ¼-inch tubing, then the adapter that is already provided on our faucets blue tubing will allow them to connect the blue tube in the manifold (removed from faucet) as instructed.

If the fridge line is different, then you will need to get a quick-connect adapter to connect the ⅜-inch blue tube (removed from the faucet). We outline the requirements for this adapter in the instructions above.

It could be due to high pressure.
Do you know what your incoming water pressure is? When there is higher water pressure going into the system, the drain lines create a venturi effect at the air gap in the faucet. The air gap is where the rinse water (from the red tube coming up from the third filter) meets with the drain line (the white tube going down to the drain connector).

The red ¼-inch tube (from the membrane) is under pressure, while the white ⅜-inch tube (going into the drain) is simply gravity fed. This means it doesn’t have any pressure that pushes the water. The sucking noise is just the systems way of trying to equalize the pressure between the two lines.

Other possible noises and causes:
Other noises that you may hear coming from that line could include dripping water. This is produced when the rinse water comes out of the ⅜-inch white line and drops into the sink’s drain pipe. This rinse water is free falling into the water that is in the sink’s P-trap.

This noise can be eliminated by tying a fishing line around the outside of the drain clamp and feeding that fishing line down into the drain pipe. This gives the rinse water a place to drain down instead of simply just falling into the drain.

Other troubleshooting:
The ⅜-inch white tube from the bottom of the reverse osmosis faucet is a gravity-fed tube; it should be cut as short and as straight as possible to avoid problems. Debris may build up inside this tube over time. Since this white tube is gravity-fed, any sort of restriction or obstruction to the flow of water through the tube can cause the air gap hole at the base of the faucet to make noise or leak.

The video below shows you how to clean out the white drain tube to ensure that the water flows freely into your drain pipe.