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    Watch a complete 4 Stage Reverse Osmosis System Installation video or call our customer support team at 1-844-787-3148.

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Our customers frequently ask:

When do I change my reverse osmosis filters?

Please refer to our Filter Replacement Schedule for suggested replacement of Stage 1, 2, 3, and 4 filters for the Pure Blue H2O 4-Stage Reverse Osmosis System.

Timely replacement of aging filters will optimize performance of system and recently changed filters.

filter_replacement_schedule

Why is water coming out of the faucet hole on base?

a. Did you install your “Flow Restrictor” into the RO Membrane (Stage 3 Filter)?


If your system did not come with a “Pre-Installed” Flow Restrictor, you will need to install this by following these simple steps:
STEP #1:


STEP #2:


STEP #3:


STEP #4:


STEP #5:

NOTE: It must be inserted all the way in the red tube coming from the faucet. It does take approximately 6 to 8 hours for the tank to fill up completely, so if you just installed the system, please give it time to fill up.

b. Is the 3/8” white drain tube installed correctly? This is the tube that comes down from the bottom of the faucet and goes into the drain pipe of your sink. This tube is gravity fed; meaning there is no pressure in it to help push the water into the drain line. So it should be as direct a route as possible. If there are any loops or twists in the tube, it should be cut and straightened to eliminate them. If the tube dips down (at any point) below where it actually connects to the drain connector, it should be cut and shortened.

c. Is the drain connector on the same line as your garbage disposal? Clogs are caused by excess runoff of garbage disposal and/or dishwashers, as well as just buildup in the tube from the brine water discharge of the RO system.

Loosen white tube from drain connector only. Do NOT disconnect tube from the base of the faucet. Reconnect the white tube to the drain connector.

If water continues to leak out the AG it may need another cleaning.

How do I re-pressurize my tank?

Tools required- Bike pump and digital tire gauge
1. First make sure you turn off your cold water supply.
2. Next you’re going to drain your tank (you never want to check your tanks pressure with water in it)
3. Locate the blue cap towards the bottom of your tank. To remove, simply screw off.

4. Next, using your digital tire gauge, check the pressure of your tank. Your pressure should be at 5-7 psi using this range you can figure out if you need to add or remove pressure.

5. If you have above 7 psi you will need to let out pressure, using the end of a pencil or pen press on the shrader valve until your digital tire gauge reads between 5-7 psi.
6. If you have below 5 psi you will need to add pressure using a bicycle pump. Attach the pump to the shrader valve and pump air into your tank until your gauge reads between 5-7 psi.

Why didn’t my 5 pack come with a blue Stage 3 Filter?

If you have recently ordered our annual 5 pack of replacement filters you may be wondering why there was no blue Stage 3 Membrane Filter included. Your first year of filter changes a Stage 3 Membrane Filter would not need to be changed since Stage 3 Membrane Filters are typically changed every 2-5 years. The annual 5 Pack of 4-Stage Reverse Osmosis System Replacement Filters includes two Stage 1 Sediment Filters, 2 Stage 2 Pre-Carbon Filters, and one Stage 4 Post-Carbon Filter.

Please refer to our Filter replacement guide for filter replacement recommendations:

How to change the Stage 3 Membrane Filter?

We recommend changing your Stage 3 Membrane Filter every 2-5 years based on your incoming water quality. Watch the video below to learn how to perform a filter change for your Stage 3 Membrane Filter:

Why is the light red on my AirGap faucet?

The red light appears after 2,000 minutes of water usage and indicates that it is time for a 6 month filter (Stage 1 and 2) change. You must manually reset the faucet battery for the light to appear blue again. See video below on how to reset the AirGap faucet battery.

Why does my water flow seem slow?

If your water flow rate seems slow, you may need to re-pressurize your tank.

First try the following troubleshooting steps to resolve slow flow.

  • Make sure filters are fully twisted into place
  • Make sure filter changes are up to date
  • Check to make sure your flow restrictor is properly installed
  • Determine whether you are on a city or well water supply. For city water re-pressurize your tank. For well water increase your PSI to 40.

If you need to re-pressurize your tank:
Tools required- Bike pump and digital tire gauge
1. First make sure you turn off your cold water supply.
2. Next you’re going to drain your tank (you never want to check your tanks pressure with water in it)
3. Locate the blue cap towards the bottom of your tank. To remove, simply screw off.

4. Next, using your digital tire gauge, check the pressure of your tank. Your pressure should be at 5-7 psi using this range you can figure out if you need to add or remove pressure.

5. If you have above 7 psi you will need to let out pressure, using the end of a pencil or pen press on the shrader valve until your digital tire gauge reads between 5-7 psi.
6. If you have below 5 psi you will need to add pressure using a bicycle pump. Attach the pump to the shrader valve and pump air into your tank until your gauge reads between 5-7 psi.

Additional troubleshooting steps to resolve slow flow.

  • Make sure filters are fully twisted into place
  • Check your flow restrictor connection
  • Determine whether you are on a city or well water supply. For city water re-pressurize your tank. For well water increase your PSI to 40.

Why is my tank not filling up?

Did you install your “Flow Restrictor” into the Reverse Osmosis Membrane Filter (Stage 3 Filter)?


To pull out the red tube from stage 3 filter hold down on the top of the white collet on the top of elbow,
and pull out red line while holding down.

Flow_Restrictor_Step_1_Pure_Blue_H2O


Step 1: This is the flow restrictor with the red tab end down and clear tube end facing red line.

Flow_Restrictor_Step_1_Pure_Blue_H2O


Step 2: Insert the clear end into the red line going to faucet.

Flow_Restrictor_Step_1_Pure_Blue_H2O


Step 3: Make sure the red end is flush with your red line.

Flow_Restrictor_Step_1_Pure_Blue_H2O

Re-insert the red line with restrictor in place back into the third filter/membrane elbow.

NOTE: It must be inserted all the way in the red tube coming from the faucet. It does take approximately 6 to 8 hours for the tank to fill up completely, so if you just installed the system, please give it time to fill up.

Why is AirGap Window Leaking?

Anytime the air gap window (tiny hole on the faucet) is leaking it’s because of the 3/8” white tube connected to the drain line which is gravity-fed and needs to be on a vertical slope with no extra length. This is the only line that does not require pressure to push the water so that’s why it needs to be as short and straight as possible. If you have had your system for over 4 months we suggest you clean your drain line. See the video below.

Why does my water keep going to drain?

a. Did you install your “Flow Restrictor” into the RO Membrane (Stage 3 Filter)?


If your system did not come with a “Pre-Installed” Flow Restrictor, you will need to install this by following these simple steps:
STEP #1:


STEP #2:


STEP #3:


STEP #4:


STEP #5:

NOTE: It must be inserted all the way in the red tube coming from the faucet. It does take approximately 6 to 8 hours for the tank to fill up completely, so if you just installed the system, please give it time to fill up.
b. Do you have your filter installed correctly? View the Filter Replacement Guide to verify that you have installed your filters correctly.

How do I connect my Ice Maker to the system?

a. Both, fridge & faucet: They need to buy a quick connect adapter to split into the tube coming from the system to the faucet (blue 3/8” tube) this adapter will look like a “T” and the top and bottom will need match our 3/8” blue tube to split into it and the side connect will need to match the size of their refrigerator tubing. Then to allow the control of the flow, allowing the tank to fill (6-8 hours) they will need to purchase a Ball Valve Adapter to insert on the line to the fridge. They will need to close this valve to allow the tank to fill, then open it to the fridge.

See images below:

b. Just fridge: If their fridge line is 1/4″ tubing, then the adapter that is already provided on our faucets blue tubing will allow them to connect the blue tube in the manifold (removed from faucet) as instructed if they were connecting our “faucet” and this adapter will be on the other end to connect their 1/4″ fridge line.
If the fridge line is different, then you will need to get a quick connect adapter to connect the 3/8” blue tube (removed from faucet) this adapter will look just like the one that is on the faucet blue tube now, just the 1/4” side will need to meet the fridge line size. See the video below:

What does my 4 stage RO system remove and what is the performance information on this product?

Why is air sucking sound coming out of the faucet hole on base?

a. Do you know what your incoming water pressure is? When there is higher water pressure going into the system, the drain lines create a venturi effect at the air gap in the faucet. The air gap is where the rinse water (red tube coming up from the third filter) meets with the drain line (the white tube going down to the drain connector). The red ¼” tube (from the membrane) is under pressure, and the white 3/8” tube ( going into the drain) is simply gravity fed; meaning it doesn’t have any pressure that pushes the water. The sucking noise is just the systems way of trying to equalize the pressure between the two lines.

b. Other noises that you hear coming from that line could include a water dripping sound. This is produced when the rinse water comes out of the 3/8” white line and drops into the sinks drain pipe. This rinse water is free falling into the water that is in the sinks P-trap.

This noise can be eliminated By tying a fishing line around the outside of the drain clamp and feeding that fishing line down inside of the drain pipe. What this does is allow that rinse water to now have a place to drain down, instead of simply just falling into the drain.

The 3/8” white tube from the bottom of the reverse osmosis (RO) faucet is a gravity-fed tube; it does need to be cut as short and as straight as possible. Over time you can also get debris buildup inside of this tube as well. Since this white tube is gravity-fed any sort of restriction/obstruction to the flow of water through the tube can cause the air gap hole on the base of the faucet to make noise or leak. The below video shows the best way we recommend to clean out eh white drain tube, to ensure that the water flows freely into your drain pipe.