Did you install your “Flow Restrictor” into the RO Membrane (Stage 3 Filter)?

Step #1:

Step #2:

Step #3:

Step #4:

Step #5:

NOTE: It must be inserted all the way in the red tube coming from the faucet.

It does take 6 to 8 hours for the tank to fill up completely, so if you just installed the system, please give it time to fill up.

a. Did you install your “Flow Restrictor” into the RO Membrane (Stage 3 Filter)?

Step #1:

Step #2:

Step #3:

Step #4:

Step #5:

NOTE: It must be inserted all the way in the red tube coming from the faucet.

b. Do you have your filter installed correctly, turned to the right all the way.

a. Do you know what your incoming water pressure is? When there is higher water pressure going into the system, the drain lines create a venturi effect at the air gap in the faucet. The air gap is where the rinse water (red tube coming up from the third filter) meets with the drain line (the white tube going down to the drain connector). The red ¼” tube (from the membrane) is under pressure, and the white 3/8” tube ( going into the drain) is simply gravity fed; meaning it doesn’t have any pressure that pushes the water. The sucking noise is just the systems way of trying to equalize the pressure between the two lines.

b. Other noises that you hear coming from that line could include a water dripping sound. This is produced when the rinse water comes out of the 3/8” white line and drops into the sinks drain pipe. This rinse water is free falling into the water that is in the sinks P-trap.

This noise can be eliminated By tying a fishing line around the outside of the drain clamp and feeding that fishing line down inside of the drain pipe. What this does is allow that rinse water to now have a place to drain down, instead of simply just falling into the drain.

a. Did you install your “Flow Restrictor” into the RO Membrane (Stage 3 Filter)? This is going to regulate the pressure and amount of water that is going to drain.

Step #1:

Step #2:

Step #3:

Step #4:

Step #5:

b. Is the 3/8” white drain tube installed correctly? This is the tube that comes down from the bottom of the faucet and goes into the drain pipe of your sink. This tube is gravity fed; meaning there is no pressure in it to help push the water into the drain line. So it should be as direct a route as possible. If there are any loops or twists in the tube, it should be cut and straightened to eliminate them. If the tube dips down (at any point) below where it actually connects to the drain connector, it should be cut and shortened.

c. Is the drain connector on the same line as your garbage disposal? Clogs are caused by excess runoff of garbage disposal and/or dishwashers, as well as just buildup in the tube from the brine water discharge of the RO system.

Loosen white tube from drain connector only. Do NOT disconnect tube from the base of the faucet. Reconnect the white tube to the drain connector.

If water continues to leak out the AG it may need another cleaning.

a. Both, fridge & faucet: They need to buy a quick connect adapter to split into the tube coming from the system to the faucet (blue 3/8” tube) this adapter will look like a “T” and the top and bottom will need match our 3/8” blue tube to split into it and the side connect will need to match the size of their refrigerator tubing. Then to allow the control of the flow, allowing the tank to fill (6-8 hours) they will need to purchase a Ball Valve Adapter to insert on the line to the fridge. They will need to close this valve to allow the tank to fill, then open it to the fridge.

See images below:

b. Just fridge: If their fridge line is 1/4″ tubing, then the adapter that is already provided on our faucets blue tubing will allow them to connect the blue tube in the manifold (removed from faucet) as instructed if they were connecting our “faucet” and this adapter will be on the other end to connect their 1/4″ fridge line.

If the fridge line is different, then you will need to get a quick connect adapter to connect the 3/8” blue tube (removed from faucet) this adapter will look just like the one that is on the faucet blue tube now, just the 1/4” side will need to meet the fridge line size.

Tools required- Bike pump and digital tire gauge 

1. First make sure you turn off your cold water supply.

2. Next you’re going to drain your tank (you never want to check your tanks pressure with water in it)

3. Locate the blue cap towards the bottom of your tank. To remove, simply screw off.

4. Next, using your digital tire gauge, check the pressure of your tank. Your pressure should be at 5-7 psi using this range you can figure out if you need to add or remove pressure.

5. If you have above 7 psi you will need to let out pressure, using the end of a pencil or pen press on the shredder valve until your digital tire gauge reads between 5-7 psi.

6. If you have below 5 psi you will need to add pressure using a bicycle pump. Attach the pump to the shredder valve and pump air into your tank until your gauge reads between 5-7 psi.